To assemble the drawer box, I used wood glue and pocket holes and screws to attach the top side, but since the space was so tight, I used regular 1 ¼″ wood screws on the bottom side. RELATED: How to apply iron on edge banding. This is totally optional, but does hide the plywood edges so you don’t see them. RELATED: Check out this post for how to EASILY cut down a plywood sheet.īefore assembling, I applied iron on edge banding to the front edges of the box pieces. I cut down my ¾″ plywood sheet and began building the box to hold the drawer. Once the paint was dry, I tightened the screws back up on the side frames and set them aside to get back to building. But before I painted, I backed out the screws on the front side of the shelf frames and wrapped them in painters tape so I didn’t paint over them.Īgain, in hindsight, I would have used different screws, but it is what it is. I primed and painted the base frame and the two side frames SW Black Magic. There was a lot of weeping and gnashing of teeth haha. This was BY FAR the worst part of this project. Once it was together, I began the process of painting. I used a square to measure and mark 2” in from the corner, and used wood glue and 2 ½” wood screws to attach all four legs to the base frame–see video above. Once I drew out the shape, I cut it out with a jig saw, then cut three more identical feet and sanded them smooth.Īt this point, the putty was dry on the frame from step 2, so sanded it smooth and began attaching the legs. You could use ¾″ plywood, or any 1x material you have handy. I used some scrap 1x poplar I had in the shop for these. I literally pulled them up from those plans on this website to copy them. If you saw my recent mid century modern dresser, these legs may look familiar. Step 3: Cut and Attach Mid Century Legs for Shelf Base I puttied over the joints on this frame and the shelf frames from step 1 and while it dried, cut out the legs. So, first, I cut down 2×4 pieces and assembled a frame using pocket holes and screws plus some wood glue. The base consisted of a 2×4 frame with mid century style legs attached to the corners. I also predrilled all the holes before driving the screw as these 2x2s tend to split easily. I used wood glue at all the joints as well and used a 12″ long scrap wood spacer block to equally space the shelf rungs. You can substitute the timber screws for regular 2 ½″ or 3″ wood screws instead. I used 2 ⅞″ timber screws for this for an added decorative detail, but don’t really recommend them as they were a pain to paint around. I assembled two identical frames from 2x2s for the bookshelf sides. Circular saw (cutting guides optional, but helpful).Paint & stain as desired (I used SW Black Magic and Minwax Provincial).(1) pair 16″ ball bearing drawer slides.You may find these posts helpful in the building process: That said, if I were to do this again, I would just use 3″ wood screws instead and just putty and paint over the screw holes. I used timber screws to assemble the frame as I thought it was a cool decorative detail, but, they are kind of pricey and were a pain to paint around. I make my own 2x2s from 2x4s using this tutorial, but you can buy precut 2x2s instead if you prefer. I built it from birch plywood and basic construction grade 2x4s. The overall dimensions of this project ended up being about 28 ½″ wide, 18″ deep, and 74 ¼″.
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